There are many variations on this chassis, so instructions like "cut the pink wire and join the green and brown together" usually won't work, and may even kill your radio!
You need to have some basic idea what you are doing (or take it to someone who does).
Only basic gear needed - soldering iron, multimeter, and maybe an exacto knife / scalpel / stanley knife:Unlocking the clarifier on almost any SSB chassis
- Follow centre pot wire to PCB. It will go to the unmarked
end of a diode.
- The other (marked) end of that diode will go to the marked
end of another identical diode. Cut it.
- Isolate the track / remove the wire from the "cold" side of the pot. Connect this pot terminal to chassis common (ground).
- Isolate the track / remove the wire from the "hot" side of the pot. Connect this pot terminal to a well regulated source of 8 or 9V, via a 1K resistor.
Presto! Unlocked clarifier.
To reset the "12 o clock" center position, realign the reference oscillator offsets.
These are usually the nearest 3 slugs (for USB, AM, and LSB respectively) to the 10.240 crystal.
If you are not sure which are the "cold" and "hot" pot terminals, they are the outer connections.
If you get them swapped over, the clarifier will work backwards but no damage will happen.
A tech or an experienced tinkerer can do this to almost any SSB radio in 10 minutes flat.If you don't understand basic instructions like the above, then take the radio to someone who does.
GME electrophone channel mods
Not for newbies or the faint-hearted. It involves constructing external oscillators (including the SSB and clarifier offsets), or replacing the PLL with another programmable one, like the Digiswitch boards we make here.
Even most techs won't touch a job that complex. We can do them here, but its not economical to do so - it can easily cost more than the price of a new radio.
Better to sell it and buy a more easily converted radio, like one of those so called "10 meter" amateur things.